Sow hardy annuals (e.g. Consolida, Calendula, Centaurea, Limnanthes and poppies) in situ. If you have very heavy clay soil (often common in the Chilterns), you may get better results by sowing under cover in containers or plug trays, as the seedlings are less likely to rot.
This is a good time of year to plant new perennials, especially towards the end of September, as the soil is still warm, but moisture levels are increasing. There is still time for them to establish before the real cold sets in.
Bring inside any tender perennials, such as Fuchsia, Gazania, Lantana and Abutilon, before frosts cause damage.
Don't neglect hanging basket maintenance - a little deadheading, watering and feeding can keep them going until mid-autumn. Once they are past their best, re-plant as winter/spring hanging baskets with spring-flowering bulbs, winter heathers, trailing ivies and spring-flowering plants as above.
Continue to deadhead plants such as Dahlia, Delphinium, <place>Rosa and Penstemon to prolong the display and give colour well into the month.
Continue cutting back perennials that are fading and dying down.
Most perennial weeds are vulnerable to weedkiller in early autumn. Applying a product containing glyphosate will ensure that the roots, as well as the top growth, are killed. Glyphosate is carried down to the roots and can carry on working through the winter. It is, however, non-selective, and treasured plants must be protected with plastic sheeting.
Climbing roses can be pruned once they have finished flowering; sideshoots from the main framework of branches are cut back to a couple of buds. Any dead, diseased or spindly growth is cut out and the new young shoots are tied in to the supports, from the base. If there is an old, thick and woody, unproductive stem, it can be removed from the base to stimulate more vigorous growth.
Late-summer flowering shrubs such as Helianthemum (rock rose) can be pruned this month. Some shrubs that should have been pruned earlier, but were forgotten, will still benefit from being pruned now rather than left until next year. Ribes (flowering currant) and Lavatera (shrubby mallow) are examples, but do be aware that other shrubs will resent untimely pruning and may flower less next year as a result.
Give evergreen hedges a final trim to make sure they are in shape for winter.
As the weather is already turning autumnal, you can now plant and move shrubs and trees without having to worry excessively about their survival and establishment.
Shrubs planted now will get off to a flying start next spring, as they will have had all winter to settle in.
Clear dead leaves promptly once they start to fall, as rotting leaves can be a source of disease in the garden.
You can now start to think about autumn lawn care, including scarifying, aerating and top dressing.
You can harden your lawn up for winter by applying an autumn lawn feed, which is high in potassium. Do this after scarifying and aerating but before applying a top dressing. Do not give summer feeds that are high in nitrogen as this will only result in weak, soft growth, which will be prone to disease in the autumn weather.
If you have any questions about your garden, would like some friendly advice orjust a helping hand call us now on 0845 094 5313.
